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Board Tuning:

Base Cleaning
Edge Tunes

Board Repair:

Base Repair
Edge Repair
Sidewall Repair
Nose/Tail/Top sheet Epoxy

Base Cleaning-
A clean base allows wax to penetrate farther into the base. There are two ways to clean a base. The first is a hot scrape. You use the same steps as a hot wax, but scrape the wax off immediately. It's pretty simple. The second is to use a base cleaner. There are two types of base cleaner: synthetic and citrus based. Synthetic works the best, but a citrus cleaner is more safe. You should only use cleaners in well ventilated areas. Spray, rub or pour them on. Let an even coat on the base sit for 10 to 15 minutes. As it evaporates, it pulls the dirt up. Rub the base with a non-fiberous cloth. A material called "fiberline" is the best. This process used after a hot scrape is the best method to clean a board's base.

Wax is not only a vital factor in keeping speed, it also protects your base. Technical waxes such as Swix, Toko and RED are advanced mixtures of elements proven to strongly repel water. Other waxes sold as snowboard waxes are most often mixtures of paraffin (a material that only partially repels water) and color to make them look cool. I'm not going to mention the names of those waxes. The wax that is absorbed into the base hardens the base material preventing gouges.

So you want to wax you board. First you need wax (see above for the best). If you want to hot wax your board (which is the best way) you'll need an iron without holes in the bottom. If you have one with holes, wrap aluminum foil around the bottom to prevent the wax from going inside and burning. Lay the board, base up, horizontal in a stable position.

After you have cleaned the base and the iron is warm (around the half way setting), hold the iron perpendicular to the board and press the bar of wax against the iron. Drip the wax on the base in a few streaks on the base. Smooth the wax over the entire base for about six or seven minutes. DO NOT BURN THE WAX. Don't spend too much time in one spot. With practice, you will learn how hot you can get the wax without burning it.

Let the board sit at room temp for at least two hours. According to Toko Wax, this is the optimal time to wait before scraping. Find a hard piece of plastic with a sharp, flat edge. A wide scraper is not important. In fact, if a scraper is too wide, you may not be able to place enough pressure on the base. Scrape ALL of the wax off. The wax that you will use had "soaked" into the pores in the base. Take a brush and run it from tip to tail to take out any excess wax. Your base should have very small grooves to channel out water. The brush will clear these grooves.

If you have wax left on the base, it will slow your board while riding. If you're into jibs and bonks, you might want to keep a little extra on there to further protect the base and aid in slides.

Edge Tunes-
The edges on a board comprise only a small percentage of the total surface area. However, they are the major cause of friction against the snow. Sharp edges not only help you carve, the allow you board to slide faster. Most edges are sharpened at 90°.

Use a file to sharpen the entire length of the board. It does not matter the direction you sharpen. Push hard on the file, but not too hard or it will snap in half. Don't be afraid to slide the file across the base to achieve a 90° angle. A ski/snowboard sharpening stone can be used to grind away on those damaged areas. Finish the edges with a "diamond" file to remove burrs. Take the stone and "detune" the edges after the contact points. Rub it over the sharpened edges and dull the sharp point at the ends of the board.

You do not need to sharpen the edges to new condition, you will want to spare as much steel as possible.

Base Repair-
The most common and inexpensive way to fill a gouged base is to use a "P-Tex" candle. Simply light the candle with a lighter, and drip or dab the P-Tex into the gouge. You will want to keep the flame blue to reduce the amount of carbon that forms. After is has been sitting for a few minutes, scrape it away with a metal scraper.

Edge Repair-
A cracked or broken edge is often hard to repair. You may be better off having a local shop (who knows what they are doing) repair it. Here's what to do if you want to do it yourself.

Clean the entire area. Scrape any loose dust, epoxy, rust... away. Squirt epoxy into the area and lay the edge back in. Clamp the area and let sit for as long as the epoxy directions state. And that's it. If you need to replace a section of the edge, a good local shop should carry it.

Sidewall Repair-
The instructions for edge repair are the same as those for sidewall repair.

Nose/Tail/Top Sheet Epoxy-
This is mostly for cosmetic nicks and dings that may lead to moisture seaping to the core. Once the core is wet, the board is toast. Follow the instructions on the epoxy you buy.

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